{"id":14001,"date":"2022-07-22T14:11:20","date_gmt":"2022-07-22T12:11:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/?p=14001"},"modified":"2022-12-12T12:29:56","modified_gmt":"2022-12-12T11:29:56","slug":"la-petite-histoire-du-maillot-de-bain","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.artesane.com\/le-journal\/arts-du-fil\/la-petite-histoire-du-maillot-de-bain\/","title":{"rendered":"La petite histoire du maillot de bain"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Chaque \u00e9t\u00e9, un essayage de nos anciens maillots de bain s’impose pour savoir quelles parures nous arbererons sur les plages, \u00e0 moins qu’une volont\u00e9 de nouveaut\u00e9 nous conduise en boutique pour nous procurer une tenue de bain flambant neuve, ou de les coudre nous-m\u00eame gr\u00e2ce aux cours Artesane<\/a>. Mais d’o\u00f9 vient le maillot de bain ? Depuis quand en porte-t-on ? et quelles ont \u00e9t\u00e9 ses \u00e9volutions ? Je vous raconte les grandes lignes de l’histoire du maillot de bain<\/strong> dans cette article. Vous pouvez retrouver un article d\u00e9taill\u00e9 sur le sujet r\u00e9dig\u00e9 par Armelle dans les Cahiers 5<\/a>.<\/p>\n

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Dans l\u2019antiquit\u00e9<\/h2>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Promenons-nous dans la Rome antique. Suivons cette via<\/em> jusqu\u2019aux termes de Trajan, sur la colline de l\u2019Oppius, non loin du Colis\u00e9e. Nous sommes en plein apr\u00e8s-midi, \u00e0 l\u2019heure de forte affluence aux bains publics. Nous traversons les salles jusqu\u2019au caldarium<\/em>, la salle des bains chauds. L\u00e0, une femme sort justement du bassin au milieu de l\u2019atmosph\u00e8re embu\u00e9e. Elle porte un l\u00e9ger tissu que la baignade a rendu presque enti\u00e8rement transparent. \u00c0 Rome, on se baignait nu ou v\u00eatu de sa tunique, ou encore d\u2019un pagne.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Rendons-nous maintenant \u00e0 la palestre, la partie des thermes r\u00e9serv\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019activit\u00e9 physique. Femmes et hommes jouent \u00e0 la balle ou luttent enduits d\u2019huile, et portent un pagne de cuir, le subligaculum<\/em>, auquel les femmes ont ajout\u00e9 un bandeau de cuir atour de leur poitrine, la fascia pectoralis <\/em>(voir cet article sur l\u2019histoire du soutien-gorge<\/a>). Cet ensemble constitue le bikini de l\u2019\u00e9poque, port\u00e9 surtout pour l\u2019activit\u00e9 physique.<\/p>\n

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Du Moyen \u00c2ge au XVIIIe <\/sup>si\u00e8cle<\/h2>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Faisons un saut jusqu\u2019au Moyen \u00c2ge. Comment a \u00e9volu\u00e9 le maillot de bain en un mill\u00e9naire ? Aucunement. \u00c0 vrai dire, il a m\u00eame r\u00e9gress\u00e9 et disparu. La raison est simple : contrairement \u00e0 la Rome antique o\u00f9 le bain quotidien \u00e9tait de rigueur pour la sant\u00e9 du corps et de l\u2019esprit (le mens sana in corpore sano <\/em>de Juv\u00e9nal), au Moyen \u00c2ge la baignade \u00e9tait consid\u00e9r\u00e9e comme mauvaise et dangereuse. Et s\u2019il n\u2019y a pas de baignade, il n\u2019y a pas besoin de v\u00eatement de bain.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Ensuite, jusqu\u2019au XVIIIe <\/sup>si\u00e8cle, les m\u0153urs se sont encore invers\u00e9es puisque, si la baignade restait encore tr\u00e8s rare, elle \u00e9tait r\u00e9alis\u00e9e \u00e0 des fins th\u00e9rapeutiques, pour apaiser divers sympt\u00f4mes et soigner des maladies. Ainsi, la Renaissance, si elle incarne la renaissance des m\u0153urs et valeurs de l\u2019antiquit\u00e9, a fait fi du bain si important pour les Romains.<\/p>\n

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Au XIXe<\/sup> si\u00e8cle<\/h2>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Dirigions-nous donc vers le moment du grand retour de la baignade. Nous sommes au XIXe<\/sup> si\u00e8cle, au bord de l\u2019eau, mais aucun morceau de peau n\u2019est visible \u00e0 l\u2019horizon. Nous apercevons cependant une dr\u00f4le de roulotte \u00e0 moiti\u00e9 immerg\u00e9e dans l\u2019eau. Il s\u2019agit d\u2019une cabine de bain, \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur de laquelle une dame est sans doute en train d\u2019enfiler sa tenue de bain \u00e0 l\u2019abri de tout regard indiscret, et depuis laquelle elle pourra directement entrer dans l\u2019eau.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Quelle tenue est-elle donc en train d\u2019enfiler pour aller se baigner ? Nous outrepassons le r\u00f4le protecteur de la roulotte et jetons un \u0153il \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur. La femme est train d\u2019ajuster la charlotte qu\u2019elle porte sur la t\u00eate et est\u2026 habill\u00e9e de la t\u00eate aux pieds ! Corset, robe empes\u00e9 en bas pour \u00e9viter que tout coup de vent sournois ne la soul\u00e8ve, pantalon bouffant, bas fonc\u00e9s, peignoir de bain et m\u00eame chaussures, notre baigneuse est d\u00e9cid\u00e9ment bien habill\u00e9e ! Les m\u0153urs de l\u2019\u00e9poque veulent que les baigneurs gardent l\u2019intimit\u00e9 de leur corps pour eux, et se rev\u00eatent ainsi pour aller dans l\u2019eau.<\/p>\n

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La premi\u00e8re moiti\u00e9 du XXe<\/sup> si\u00e8cle<\/h2>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Nous voici \u00e0 pr\u00e9sent sur une plage fran\u00e7aise de l\u2019Atlantique, peu avant la premi\u00e8re guerre mondiale. Nous observons sur le sable un femme portant une sorte de justaucorps collant sans manches et s\u2019arr\u00eatant un peu au-dessus des genoux. Il s\u2019agit d\u2019un maillot d\u00e9mocratis\u00e9 par la nageuse Annette Kellerman<\/strong>, \u00e0 l\u2019origine avec des manches et des jambes compl\u00e8tes. Cependant, nous observons un homme muni d\u2019un m\u00e8tre mesurant la distance entre le genou de la femme et son maillot. Les maillots que nous observons sur les hommes sont en tous points semblables.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Si Annette a r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 d\u00e9mocratiser son maillot en utilisant l\u2019argument de la performance sportive, puisque les maillots bouffants ne pouvaient qu\u2019aider les baigneurs \u00e0 couler \u00e0 pic, une police des m\u0153urs parcourait tout de m\u00eame les plages afin de v\u00e9rifier que pas plus de cinq centim\u00e8tres de peau n\u2019\u00e9taient visibles au-dessus du genou. Les hommes, \u00e9galement, devaient camoufler leur grosseur sous la ceinture par une jupette large plac\u00e9e au-dessus de l\u2019entrejambe. Il reste donc du chemin avant d\u2019atteindre nos bikinis modernes et nos slips moulants.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0En ce qui concerne les mati\u00e8res, le fabriquant Jantzen<\/strong> sort, en 1915, une ligne de maillots en lainage, qui s\u2019imbibent d\u2019eau et s\u2019alourdissent lors de la baignade. Mais, en 1920, ce m\u00eame fabriquant d\u00e9voile sa nouvelle maille \u00e9lastique pour cr\u00e9er \u00ab le maillot qui a chang\u00e9 la baignade en natation \u00bb. Pour poursuivre ces avanc\u00e9es, la soci\u00e9t\u00e9 United States Rubber Company<\/strong> cr\u00e9e le mat\u00e9riau Elastex, du caoutchouc recouvert de fibres textiles et gainant. Les maillots sont alors sans manches, d\u00e9collet\u00e9s et avec une culotte int\u00e9grale. Toutes ces r\u00e9volutions technologiques ont ouvert la voie au nylon des ann\u00e9es 1940 et 1950, et au lycra des ann\u00e9es 1960.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Enfin, d\u00e8s les ann\u00e9es 1930, le maillot deux pi\u00e8ces fait son apparition sur les plages, notamment avec le maillot Atome<\/strong> de Jacques Heim<\/strong> en 1932, appel\u00e9 \u00ab le plus petit maillot de bain du monde \u00bb, compos\u00e9 d\u2019une culotte taille haute couvrant le nombril, encore jug\u00e9 beaucoup trop \u00e9rotique, et d\u2019un soutien-gorge classique.<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Jacques_Hein.png\u00a0\u00bb alt=\u00a0\u00bbillustration du maillot Atom de Jacques Heim\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbJacques_Heim\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb80%\u00a0\u00bb module_alignment=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

La seconde moiti\u00e9 du XXe<\/sup> si\u00e8cle<\/h2>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb1_2,1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Premier_Bikini_Louis_Renard.png\u00a0\u00bb alt=\u00a0\u00bbillustration du bikini de Louis R\u00e9ard\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbPremier_Bikini_Louis_Renard\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Nous sommes en 1946, \u00e0 la piscine Molitor, le jour de la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre f\u00eate de l\u2019eau et de son concours de la plus jolie baigneuse. Au bord du bassin, au milieu d\u2019autre demoiselles en maillots de bain assez classiques pour l\u2019\u00e9poque, Michelle Bernardini<\/strong>, danseuse nue du casino de Paris, arbore, en guise de maillot de bain, deux triangles r\u00e9unis par un cordon pour le bas, et un soutien-gorge pour le haut, dans un tissu portant l\u2019imprim\u00e9 newpaper print<\/em> sorti par Schiaparelli<\/strong> en 1935. Ce premier bikini<\/strong> a \u00e9t\u00e9 invent\u00e9 par Louis R\u00e9ard<\/strong>, qui regarde, confiant, son mod\u00e8le d\u00e9filer.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Si Michelle Bernardini ne gagne pas le concours ce jour-l\u00e0, le bikini est officiellement apparu sous son nom. Mais, d\u2019o\u00f9 vient-il, ce nom ? De l\u2019atoll Bikini, dans l\u2019oc\u00e9an Pacifique, o\u00f9 sont r\u00e9alis\u00e9s des essais nucl\u00e9aire. Bikini concurrence donc l\u2019Atom de Jacques Heim puisqu\u2019il est \u00ab encore plus petit que le plus petit maillot de bain du monde \u00bb, mais \u00e9galement la \u00ab premi\u00e8re bombe an-atomique \u00bb. Cependant, il est encore un peu t\u00f4t pour que le bikini s\u2019affirme et se d\u00e9mocratise.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0C\u2019est entre les ann\u00e9es 1950 et 1970 que le bikini inondera les plages, propuls\u00e9 par les idoles de cin\u00e9ma, comme Ursula Andress et son bikini ceintur\u00e9 dans James Bond contre Dr. No. Le maillot une pi\u00e8ce<\/strong> revient tout de m\u00eame \u00e0 la mode, et Rudi Gernreich sort son monokini<\/strong> unisexe en 1962. Bien entendu, le bikini ne cessera de faire scandale par les d\u00e9voilements os\u00e9s des corps qu\u2019il engendre, comme celui du bikini de m\u00e9tal dor\u00e9 de la Princesse L\u00e9ia dans l\u2019\u00e9pisode VI de la saga Star Wars.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Dans les ann\u00e9es 1970, on d\u00e9nude toujours plus les corps, et le bikini revient donc en force. La d\u00e9cennie suivante, le maillot une pi\u00e8ce devient une pi\u00e8ce de couture, presque vintage, et on n\u2019h\u00e9site pas \u00e0 se fournir dans les grande maisons si l\u2019on en a les moyens. Enfin, dans les ann\u00e9es 1990, la resexualisassion des corps voit les maillots deux pi\u00e8ces<\/strong> se garnir de soutiens-gorge \u00e0 coussinets et \u00e0 balconnets balein\u00e9s pour rapprocher les seins et leur donner du volume, ainsi que de d\u00e9collet\u00e9s plongeants \u00e0 la Pamela Anderson dans Alerte \u00e0 Malibu.<\/p>\n

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\u00c0 partir des ann\u00e9es 1990<\/h2>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Concernant les coupes de maillots, la famille des \u00ab kinis \u00bb s\u2019agrandit de nombreux membres dans les ann\u00e9es 1990. Tout d\u2019abord, le bikini classique ne cesse de perdre du tissu, comme le montre le fameux bikini Chanel<\/strong> de la collection printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 de 1996. Puis, le tankini<\/strong> appara\u00eet en 1998, constitu\u00e9 d\u2019une culotte et d\u2019un d\u00e9bardeur, suivi par le trikini<\/strong>, le bandeaukini<\/strong>, le camkini<\/strong>, le sling bikini<\/strong>, le skirtini<\/strong> ou encore le burkini<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Faisons \u00e9galement un petit point sur les mati\u00e8res de ces maillots. Nous nous \u00e9tions arr\u00eat\u00e9s au lycra, mais le progr\u00e8s technologique dans la fili\u00e8re textile ne s\u2019est pas arr\u00eat\u00e9 l\u00e0. Dans les ann\u00e9es 1990 na\u00eet le Suplex, un tissu r\u00e9sistant au chlore et gainant. En 1994, avec l\u2019av\u00e8nement de la peau hal\u00e9e sur les plages, est apparu le tan-through, un tissu \u00e0 fibres \u00e0 filtre solaire pour \u00e9viter les marques de bronzage.<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Chanel_Printemps_Ete_1996.png\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbChanel_Printemps_Ete_1996″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb65%\u00a0\u00bb module_alignment=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Dans les ann\u00e9es 2000, on cherche \u00e0 imiter la nature pour \u00eatre toujours plus performant dans le milieu sportif. Speedo<\/strong> d\u00e9veloppe alors le Fatskin qui imite la peau des requins. La combinaison LZR fait \u00e9galement son apparition en 2008. Enfin, Spinali Design con\u00e7oit en 2015 le premier maillot connect\u00e9, qui pr\u00e9vient son porteur des risques de coups de soleil gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 des capteurs UV. On n\u2019arr\u00eate pas le progr\u00e8s !<\/p>\n

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\u00c0 bient\u00f4t chez Artesane !<\/p>\n

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Plongez dans un voyage \u00e0 travers les \u00e9poques \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte de l’histoire du maillot de bain et de ses anecdotes.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":14020,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[899],"tags":[915],"class_list":["post-14001","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-histoire","tag-mise-en-page-image-principale"],"yoast_head":"\nLa petite histoire du maillot de bain - Journal Artesane - Arts du Fil<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Plongez dans un voyage \u00e0 travers les \u00e9poques \u00e0 la d\u00e9couverte de l'histoire du maillot de bain et de ses anecdotes.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.artesane.com\/le-journal\/arts-du-fil\/la-petite-histoire-du-maillot-de-bain\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"La petite histoire du maillot de bain - 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\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Voici qui met un terme \u00e0 notre balade historique aux c\u00f4t\u00e9s du maillot de bain. Pour une histoire compl\u00e8te et d\u00e9taill\u00e9e sur le sujet, avec les grands cr\u00e9ateurs, les phases historiques et toutes les anecdotes autour du maillot de bain, retrouvez l\u2019article d\u2019Armelle dans les Cahiers Artesane<\/em> n\u00b0 5<\/a>. Vous y trouverez \u00e9galement des patrons et un cours vid\u00e9o inclus pour personnaliser et r\u00e9aliser vos maillots de bain. Et, si vous n\u2019avez toujours pas votre maillot pour cet \u00e9t\u00e9, retrouvez notre coffret maillot une pi\u00e8ce Majorelle<\/a>, notre coffret maillot deux pi\u00e8ces Normandy<\/a>, et notre coffret maillot pour homme Bretagne<\/a>.<\/p>\n