{"id":14063,"date":"2022-09-16T13:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-09-16T11:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/?p=14063"},"modified":"2023-05-25T12:31:50","modified_gmt":"2023-05-25T10:31:50","slug":"laissez-moi-vous-raconter-le-col-de-chemise","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.artesane.com\/le-journal\/arts-du-fil\/laissez-moi-vous-raconter-le-col-de-chemise\/","title":{"rendered":"D\u00e9couvrez l’histoire captivante du col de chemise !"},"content":{"rendered":"\n[et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00c0 l\u2019occasion de la sortie du cours Apprenez \u00e0 coudre une chemise <\/i><\/a>sur Artesane, j\u2019ai voulu me pencher sur cette pi\u00e8ce incontournable et plus particuli\u00e8rement sur l\u2019histoire du col de chemise<\/strong>. Du col lavalli\u00e8re au col d\u00e9tachable, je vous emm\u00e8ne d\u00e9couvrir ses \u00e9volutions stylistiques du Moyen \u00c2ge \u00e0 nos jours.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 Les journ\u00e9es raccourcissent, le temps se fait plus doux et les supermarch\u00e9s se remplissent de parents \u00e0 la recherche d\u00e9sesp\u00e9r\u00e9e d\u2019un cahier 24×32, petits carreaux, 92 pages, interligne 6, qui n\u2019existe pas mais que le professeur de maths exige\u2026 Oui, c\u2019est d\u00e9j\u00e0 la rentr\u00e9e !<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Les mauvaises habitudes n\u2019ont pas mis longtemps \u00e0 revenir : en ce premier jour de septembre, je suis d\u00e9j\u00e0 en retard pour ma journ\u00e9e de cours. Je saute dans ma jupe bordeaux, je me faufile dans une chemise l\u00e9g\u00e8re en lin blanc<\/strong> et je cours vers le m\u00e9tro. La ligne est ralentie, ce n\u2019est vraiment pas mon jour de chance… Un sprint et quelques bousculades plus tard, j\u2019arrive devant la salle essouffl\u00e9e mais satisfaite : il est 9h01, mes camarades finissent \u00e0 peine de s\u2019installer.<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 Apr\u00e8s d\u2019interminables heures de pr\u00e9sentation des lectures et des examens \u00e0 venir, je n\u2019ai qu\u2019une seule chose en t\u00eate : retrouver mes copains pour un grand verre en terrasse. J\u2019ai tout juste assez de temps pour passer prendre une douche chez moi et j\u2019en profite pour me changer. Pour ce soir, je choisis encore une chemise, en soie verte cette fois, que je laisse flotter librement au-dessus d\u2019un jeans pour plus de nonchalance.<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0J\u2019en suis convaincue depuis longtemps : la chemise est la pi\u00e8ce incontournable<\/strong> pour r\u00e9adapter ses tenues aux contraintes d\u2019un agenda trop charg\u00e9. C\u2019est pourquoi Artesane vous propose de souffler un peu et de ressortir votre machine \u00e0 coudre pour suivre le nouveau cours Apprenez \u00e0 coudre une chemise<\/a>, tout juste disponible sur le site. Il vous permettra de confectionner une pi\u00e8ce aux finitions pr\u00e9cises : modification du patron, assemblage des pi\u00e8ces, r\u00e9alisation d\u2019une boutonni\u00e8re\u2026 Vous pourrez \u00e9galement d\u00e9couvrir la finesse de la patte capucin<\/strong> et la l\u00e9g\u00e8ret\u00e9 de la fente ind\u00e9chirable<\/strong> !<\/em><\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/DSC_018772dpi.jpg\u00a0\u00bb alt=\u00a0\u00bbdeux femmes portant une chemise r\u00e9alis\u00e9e gr\u00e2ce au cours Artesane\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbDSC_018772dpi\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb100%\u00a0\u00bb module_alignment=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

Au fait, c\u2019est quoi exactement une chemise ?\u00a0<\/b><\/h2>\n

<\/b><\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Les variations de la chemise au fil du temps et des modes la rendraient presque difficile \u00e0 d\u00e9finir. Avant de mieux d\u00e9couvrir son histoire, revenons-en aux bases : la chemise est un haut couvrant le torse et les bras, dont l\u2019avant est compos\u00e9 de deux parties qui s\u2019attachent par divers moyens comme des boutons ou des pressions.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Capture-decran-2022-09-07-a-14.35.02.png\u00a0\u00bb alt=\u00a0\u00bbsch\u00e9ma d’une chemise\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbCapture d\u2019\u00e9cran 2022-09-07 \u00e0 14.35.02″ align=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb100%\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Au gr\u00e9 des envies, elle peut s\u2019ajuster<\/strong> ou s\u2019\u00e9largir<\/strong>, se parer d\u2019une poche<\/strong> sur la poitrine, de manches courtes<\/strong> ou trois-quarts\u2026 Parmi tous ces d\u00e9tails, quelque chose me fascine particuli\u00e8rement : le col<\/strong>. Petite pi\u00e8ce de tissu cousue au bord de l\u2019encolure et entourant le cou et\/ou le d\u00e9collet\u00e9, il peut \u00eatre am\u00e9ricain, lavalli\u00e8re, claudine, officier, pelle \u00e0 tarte, rond, godronn\u00e9, \u00e0 pointe, ruch\u00e9\u2026 Le col de chemise rivalise d\u2019inventivit\u00e9 et n\u2019a de cesse de se r\u00e9inventer. Son histoire est \u00e9troitement li\u00e9e \u00e0 celle de la soci\u00e9t\u00e9, notamment aux questions d\u2019hygi\u00e8ne<\/strong>, de repr\u00e9sentation<\/strong> et de classe sociale<\/strong>.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

Le col, grand absent des premi\u00e8res chemises<\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 Dr\u00f4le de fa\u00e7on de commencer un article sur le col que d\u2019\u00e9voquer une p\u00e9riode o\u00f9 il n\u2019existait pas\u2026 Pourtant, si les modifications des cols au fil du temps sont historiquement significatives, son absence initiale l\u2019est \u00e9galement : elle permet d\u2019introduire le lien intime entre la chemise et la question de l\u2019hygi\u00e8ne<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 Au Moyen \u00c2ge, on suspecte l\u2019eau courante d\u2019\u00eatre porteuse de maladies. Il faut donc minimiser les contacts entre la peau et ce dangereux liquide, en \u00e9vitant au maximum de se baigner.<\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Par ailleurs, les v\u00eatements d\u2019ext\u00e9rieur sont pr\u00e9cieux car ils co\u00fbtent cher. Ils sont donc con\u00e7us pour \u00eatre r\u00e9sistants \u00e0 des conditions m\u00e9t\u00e9orologiques et des utilisations vari\u00e9es, afin de limiter leur usure<\/strong> : les plus modestes portent des v\u00eatements en chanvre, les plus nobles en soie. La difficult\u00e9 voire l’impossibilit\u00e9 d\u2019alterner avec d\u2019autres v\u00eatements, la volont\u00e9 de conserver les \u00e9toffes et la peur de perdre la flamboyance des couleurs limitent la fr\u00e9quence des lavages.<\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Cette impossibilit\u00e9 de nettoyer les corps et les v\u00eatements de mani\u00e8re ponctuelle impose la n\u00e9cessit\u00e9 d\u2019introduire une troisi\u00e8me \u00e9paisseur, la chemise, qui fait office de sous-v\u00eatement<\/strong>. Pi\u00e8ce tr\u00e8s simple – une toile avec un trou pour faire passer la t\u00eate -, la chemise est con\u00e7ue dans des mati\u00e8res faciles d\u2019entretien comme le coton ou le lin<\/strong>, qui supportent des lavages \u00e0 l\u2019eau bouillie. Elle prot\u00e8ge ainsi les v\u00eatements du dessus de la salet\u00e9 des individus\u2026 mais est \u00e9galement cens\u00e9e \u201claver\u201d le corps par contact. L\u2019absence de col r\u00e9v\u00e8le la n\u00e9cessit\u00e9 de rendre la chemise invisible pour ne pas choquer les m\u0153urs en d\u00e9voilant ses sous-v\u00eatements.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

Renaissance, blancheur et extravagance<\/b><\/h2>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb1_2,1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00c0 partir de la Renaissance, et plus pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment du d\u00e9but du XVIe si\u00e8cle, la chemise se d\u00e9voile petit \u00e0 petit pour devenir un v\u00eatement en lui-m\u00eame. Elle n\u2019est plus objet de tabous et peut d\u00e9sormais \u00eatre port\u00e9e de mani\u00e8re visible. Elle devient plus sophistiqu\u00e9e<\/strong>, notamment au sein de la noblesse o\u00f9 elle se pare de mati\u00e8res nobles et de d\u00e9tails travaill\u00e9s\u2026 en particulier les cols, qui rivalisent d\u2019extravagance. Ils deviennent un v\u00e9ritable ph\u00e9nom\u00e8ne de mode<\/strong> \u00e0 la Cour de France o\u00f9 ils n\u2019auront de cesse de s\u2019agrandir et de se sur\u00e9lever. R\u00e9v\u00e9lateurs du degr\u00e9 de noblesse et de la richesse de son porteur, ils sont un symbole de luxe<\/strong> (il s\u2019agit de tissu \u201cinutile\u201d et cher), d\u2019oisivet\u00e9<\/strong> (pas \u00e9vident de travailler avec un col de la largeur des \u00e9paules !) et de raffinement<\/strong> (souvent sertis de fine dentelle).<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/1609.png\u00a0\u00bb alt=\u00a0\u00bbillustration d’un homme portant un col extravagant\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1609″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb64%\u00a0\u00bb module_alignment=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb1_2,1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/historique1.png\u00a0\u00bb alt=\u00a0\u00bbillustration d’une femme portant une large fraise \u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbhistorique1″ align=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb53%\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Cette mode exub\u00e9rante atteint son apog\u00e9e avec l\u2019invention de la fraise<\/strong>, un col compos\u00e9 de collerettes superpos\u00e9es formant des plis serr\u00e9s et r\u00e9guliers entourant compl\u00e8tement le cou, \u00e0 la fin du XVIe si\u00e8cle. Tr\u00e8s en vogue sous le r\u00e8gne d\u2019Henri IV, les fraises sont tellement imposantes qu\u2019elles se d\u00e9tachent du reste de la chemise pour devenir une pi\u00e8ce \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re. Les autorit\u00e9s devront m\u00eame publier des \u00e9dits somptuaires<\/strong> pour limiter les exc\u00e8s en imposant une taille maximale de fraise en fonction du rang \u00e0 la Cour.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Maintenant que la chemise est visible, la blancheur du v\u00eatement devient capitale : pour conserver un v\u00eatement parfaitement blanc, il faut avoir les moyens d\u2019embaucher des domestiques ou d\u2019acheter r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement des v\u00eatements neufs. Le col et les manches, principales parties visibles du v\u00eatement, sont r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement bouillies pour pr\u00e9server leur puret\u00e9 immacul\u00e9e. La chemise blanche est n\u00e9e.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb1_2,1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

\u00a0 Sous Louis XIV, l\u2019extravagance des cols est progressivement remplac\u00e9e par des cravates<\/strong>, qui ne ressemblent en rien aux cravates que l\u2019on conna\u00eet aujourd\u2019hui mais sont, comme elles, des pi\u00e8ces de tissu nou\u00e9es autour du col pour ornementer un d\u00e9collet\u00e9. Les cravates les plus en vogue \u00e0 la fin du XVIIe si\u00e8cle sont le jabot<\/strong>, port\u00e9 par les hommes, et la lavalli\u00e8re<\/strong>, son \u00e9quivalent f\u00e9minin invent\u00e9 par la favorite du roi dans les ann\u00e9es 1660\u2026 dont les noms vous \u00e9voquent s\u00fbrement des cols de chemises encore utilis\u00e9s aujourd\u2019hui !<\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Le col simple \u00e0 rabat devient quant \u00e0 lui r\u00e9serv\u00e9 aux v\u00eatements de fonction<\/strong> des ministres, hommes de loi et hommes d\u2019\u00e9glise.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_2″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/historique15.png\u00a0\u00bb alt=\u00a0\u00bbillustration d’une chemise \u00e0 jabot\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbhistorique15″ align=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb60%\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

La soci\u00e9t\u00e9 des cols d\u00e9tachables<\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00c0 l’issue de la R\u00e9volution Fran\u00e7aise, la chemise de travail se stabilise autour de cols pointus rabattus, proches de ceux que nous connaissons aujourd\u2019hui. C\u2019est ce type de col qui a \u00e9t\u00e9 choisi pour la chemise du cours vid\u00e9o Apprenez \u00e0 coudre une chemise<\/strong> <\/i><\/a>sur Artesane.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/DSC_031672dpi.jpg\u00a0\u00bb alt=\u00a0\u00bbphoto des cols de la chemise du cours Artesane\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbDSC_031672dpi\u00a0\u00bb align=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb100%\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Cette stabilisation des cols de chemise autour d\u2019une forme bien pr\u00e9cise permet l\u2019invention d\u2019un nouvel accessoire<\/strong> : le col amovible, encore et toujours li\u00e9 \u00e0 la question de la propret\u00e9 et de l\u2019hygi\u00e8ne. Le col \u00e9tant particuli\u00e8rement expos\u00e9 aux t\u00e2ches, de nourriture comme de travail, l\u2019objectif est de faciliter la vie des travailleurs en leur permettant de d\u00e9tacher leur col pour le laver r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement. Moins cher que l\u2019achat d\u2019une chemise enti\u00e8re, c\u2019est une solution relativement \u00e9conomique.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/Good.png\u00a0\u00bb alt=\u00a0\u00bbillustration d’une chemise \u00e0 col jabot\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbGood\u00a0\u00bb align=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb32%\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.19.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

\u00a0 \u00a0 Ces cols amovibles sont souvent trait\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019amidon pour que leur forme reste stable : on dit que le col est empes\u00e9. Aujourd\u2019hui, il est possible d\u2019utiliser des fournitures, notamment des bandes thermocollantes<\/strong>, pour rigidifier le col mais \u00e9galement d\u2019autres zones strat\u00e9giques d\u2019un v\u00eatement, comme la ceinture.<\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0Le col d\u00e9tachable perdure jusque dans les ann\u00e9es 1960 avant d\u2019\u00eatre \u00e9vinc\u00e9 par l\u2019invention du lave-linge<\/strong>, qui banalise les cols fixes \u00e0 m\u00eame le v\u00eatement (d\u00e9sormais lavable enti\u00e8rement \u00e0 moindre co\u00fbt), et par l\u2019arriv\u00e9e du pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter<\/strong>, qui entra\u00eene une forte baisse des prix et favorise le remplacement r\u00e9gulier de ses v\u00eatements d\u00e9fra\u00eechis ou ab\u00eem\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0\u00c0 l\u2019issue de cette th\u00e8se quasi-exhaustive sur le col de chemise, vous devriez avoir un niveau d\u2019expert en histoire de la mode (mais si, ne soyez pas modestes). Si vous souhaitez conna\u00eetre la chemise sur le bout des doigts, il ne vous reste qu\u2019\u00e0 jeter un \u0153il sur le cours de Carmen<\/strong><\/a>, qui vous fera passer de l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 du miroir pour d\u00e9couvrir tous les secrets techniques de cette pi\u00e8ce !<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/le-journal.artesane.com\/arts-du-fil\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/09\/DSC_024772dpi.jpg\u00a0\u00bb alt=\u00a0\u00bbphoto d’une manche de chemise du cours d’Artesane\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbDSC_024772dpi\u00a0\u00bb align=\u00a0\u00bbcenter\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb width=\u00a0\u00bb100%\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.17.4″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb]

\u00c0 bient\u00f4t chez Artesane !<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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