{"id":17934,"date":"2026-05-29T14:13:31","date_gmt":"2026-05-29T12:13:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.artesane.com\/le-journal\/arts-du-fil\/?p=17934"},"modified":"2026-05-29T14:14:39","modified_gmt":"2026-05-29T12:14:39","slug":"histoire-de-la-chemise","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.artesane.com\/le-journal\/arts-du-fil\/histoire-de-la-chemise\/","title":{"rendered":"Histoire de la mode : la chemise"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"La<\/p>\n

La chemise est aujourd’hui l’une des pi\u00e8ces les plus port\u00e9es du vestiaire, masculin comme f\u00e9minin. Pourtant, peu de v\u00eatements ont travers\u00e9 autant de si\u00e8cles et de transformations. De sous-v\u00eatement m\u00e9di\u00e9val \u00e0 pi\u00e8ce de couture intemporelle, retracer l’histoire de la mode de la chemise, c’est comprendre pourquoi elle reste si complexe \u00e0 coudre, et pourquoi ma\u00eetriser sa confection est encore aujourd’hui un v\u00e9ritable art.<\/p>\n

Histoire de la chemise dans l’antiquit\u00e9<\/b><\/b><\/h2>\n

\"Chemise<\/p>\n

\u00c0 ses d\u00e9buts, la chemise n’\u00e9tait pas destin\u00e9e \u00e0 \u00eatre vue. Dans l’Antiquit\u00e9 et au Moyen \u00c2ge, elle servait de v\u00eatement de dessous en lin ou en coton, port\u00e9 pour prot\u00e9ger les habits sup\u00e9rieurs de la transpiration. Elle est alors un sous-v\u00eatement port\u00e9 autant par les femmes que par les hommes. La plus ancienne chemise retrouv\u00e9e \u00e0 ce jour date de la premi\u00e8re dynastie \u00e9gyptienne, entre 3400 et 3100 avant J.C. : la robe de Tarkhan, d\u00e9couverte en 1913 dans une n\u00e9cropole \u00e9gyptienne.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

La Renaissance : naissance de la chemise telle qu’on la coud aujourd’hui<\/b><\/h2>\n
\"Henri

\u00ab\u00a0Henri Ier de Lorraine, troisi\u00e8me duc de Guise, dit le Balafr\u00e9 (1550-1588)\u00a0\u00bb. Paris, mus\u00e9e Carnavalet.<\/p><\/div>\n

C’est \u00e0 partir de la Renaissance que tout bascule. Les chemises apparaissent dans les garde-robes masculines, et le col amovible est invent\u00e9 pour permettre d’espacer les lavages tout en portant le v\u00eatement sous une veste. Au XVI\u00e8me si\u00e8cle, la chemise se confectionne en soie et en dentelle, orn\u00e9e au niveau du col de jabot, de fraise, et aux poignets : broderies, dentelles, boutons.<\/p>\n

C’est pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment cette p\u00e9riode qui pose les bases de tout ce que l’on apprend encore aujourd’hui quand on coud une chemise : le soin apport\u00e9 au col, \u00e0 la manchette, \u00e0 la patte de boutonnage. Des d\u00e9tails qui ne sont jamais anodins, et qui font toute la diff\u00e9rence entre une chemise ordinaire et une chemise bien construite.<\/p>\n

\"poignets<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/h4>\n

XIXe si\u00e8cle : la codification du savoir-faire chemisier<\/b><\/h2>\n

\"homme<\/p>\n

Au d\u00e9but du XIXe si\u00e8cle, la chemise est \u00e0 col relev\u00e9, \u00e0 pointes aigu\u00ebs maintenues par une cravate qui d\u00e9gage le menton. C’est \u00e0 cette \u00e9poque que se codifient les grandes conventions encore en vigueur : le plastron, les encolures sp\u00e9cifiques \u00e0 chaque type de col, les assemblages soign\u00e9s qui garantissent tenue et durabilit\u00e9.<\/p>\n

La confection des chemises devient un m\u00e9tier \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re, avec ses r\u00e8gles, ses gestes pr\u00e9cis, ses mati\u00e8res de pr\u00e9dilection. La popeline de coton s’impose comme la r\u00e9f\u00e9rence absolue pour coudre une chemise classique (c’est d’ailleurs la mati\u00e8re que nous utilisons dans notre cours 1001 chemises : les grands classiques<\/a> pour r\u00e9aliser la chemise de d\u00e9monstration).<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

XXe si\u00e8cle : \u00e9mancipation et d\u00e9mocratisation<\/b><\/h2>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Apr\u00e8s la Premi\u00e8re Guerre mondiale, la chemise \u00e9volue, se fait moins longue et int\u00e8gre plus largement la garde-robe masculine. Mais c’est son passage dans le vestiaire f\u00e9minin qui marque la rupture culturelle la plus forte. Emprunter une pi\u00e8ce masculine revenait alors \u00e0 braver les interdits et \u00e0 imiter le costume du pouvoir. La chemise devient un symbole discret mais puissant d’\u00e9mancipation.<\/p>\n

\"La<\/p>\n

Les grands couturiers s’en emparent. Yves Saint Laurent en fait une pi\u00e8ce phare de sa vision de la mode f\u00e9minine. Les codes du vestiaire masculin : col anglais, manchette mousquetaire, patte de boutonnage invisible\u2026 sont r\u00e9interpr\u00e9t\u00e9s, assouplis, r\u00e9invent\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

\"Vintage

La Chemise selon Saint-Laurent – 1968<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

Apprendre \u00e0 coudre une chemise classique aujourd’hui<\/b><\/h2>\n
\"La

Balenciaga, printemps-\u00e9t\u00e9 2026<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

La chemise du XXIe si\u00e8cle n’a jamais \u00e9t\u00e9 aussi diversifi\u00e9e. Elle est port\u00e9e dans tous les styles et, \u00e9voluant avec les techniques de tissage et les nouvelles mati\u00e8res, elle est aujourd’hui un accessoire de mode \u00e0 part enti\u00e8re.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

C’est exactement l’esprit de notre cours de couture en ligne 1001 Chemises : les grands classiques<\/a> avec Sandra Maciak : aborder la chemise comme une encyclop\u00e9die vivante, o\u00f9 chaque le\u00e7on (les entoilages thermocollants ou non, les cols fran\u00e7ais, anglais ou italiens, les plastrons, les plis, les manchettes) \u00e9claire un chapitre de cette longue histoire. Parce qu’apprendre \u00e0 coudre une chemise, c’est renouer avec des si\u00e8cles de savoir-faire, et les faire siens.<\/p>\n

D\u00e9couvrez le cours 1001 Chemises : les grands classiques<\/a>\u00a0<\/i>sur Artesane.com <\/span>et cousez votre premi\u00e8re chemise pas \u00e0 pas.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La chemise est aujourd’hui l’une des pi\u00e8ces les plus port\u00e9es du vestiaire, masculin comme f\u00e9minin. Pourtant, peu de v\u00eatements ont travers\u00e9 autant de si\u00e8cles et de transformations. De sous-v\u00eatement m\u00e9di\u00e9val \u00e0 pi\u00e8ce de couture intemporelle, retracer l’histoire de la mode de la chemise, c’est comprendre pourquoi elle reste si complexe \u00e0 coudre, et pourquoi ma\u00eetriser […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":28,"featured_media":17954,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"off","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[899,917],"tags":[1029,1030,17,1031],"class_list":["post-17934","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-histoire","category-histoire-de-vetements","tag-chemise","tag-coudre-une-chemise","tag-couture","tag-histoire-de-la-chemise"],"yoast_head":"\nHistoire de la mode : la chemise - Journal Artesane - Arts du Fil<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Histoire de la mode : d\u00e9couvrez la chemise, de l'antiquit\u00e9 \u00e0 aujourd'hui sur Artesane. 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